Skylight removal and skin over

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Re: Skylight removal and skin over

Post by 8233 »

I think wing covers, etc are pretty common in Alaska. If you can protect a fabric wing from UV, it can do just fine being outside. Not my first choice but it's an option.
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Re: Skylight removal and skin over

Post by klyde sessna »

Keep the skylights if you can. Removing ANY window from our birds is reducing visibility and inviting potential mid-airs, even if remotely. Same goes for cluttering windows with cameras and electronic device mounts, tinting, etc. We need MORE outside visibility, not less. Look at the L19 for optimal visibility in Cessnas. Worried about sun exposure? Hats and sunscreen are a must. Lightweight long sleeves too. SEE and be seen! You cant see if the windows aren't there!
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Re: Skylight removal and skin over

Post by klyde sessna »

Cockpit covers are cheap insurance if your plane is outside.
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Re: Skylight removal and skin over

Post by 6643 »

klyde sessna wrote: Sat Jan 16, 2021 12:38 pmWorried about sun exposure? Hats and sunscreen are a must. Lightweight long sleeves too. SEE and be seen! You cant see if the windows aren't there!
Some (LP Aero) if not all aircraft Plexiglas is UV blocking.
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Re: Skylight removal and skin over

Post by a64pilot »

6643 wrote: Sat Jan 16, 2021 3:13 pm
klyde sessna wrote: Sat Jan 16, 2021 12:38 pmWorried about sun exposure? Hats and sunscreen are a must. Lightweight long sleeves too. SEE and be seen! You cant see if the windows aren't there!
Some (LP Aero) if not all aircraft Plexiglas is UV blocking.
I believe pretty much all plastics are, years ago the expensive sunglasses used to advertise UV blocking like it was a feature only in expensive glasses, then Consumer Reports or similar pretty much busted that.

I believe glass also blocks UV, and for that reason tanning lights are made from quartz?

But something gets through even glass to cause damage, last house in South Ga we had, had a large siding glass door facing East, over a couple of years the sun bleached out the Oak floor, if you can bleach out oak flooring, you can bleach out almost anything .
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Re: Skylight removal and skin over

Post by a64pilot »

8233 wrote: Thu Jan 14, 2021 8:26 am I think wing covers, etc are pretty common in Alaska. If you can protect a fabric wing from UV, it can do just fine being outside. Not my first choice but it's an option.
There is snow and ice of course, but I don’t think sun damage in Ak is near the issue it is in say Fl where we are living now.

I theorize with no evidence that cold temps may also reduce corrosion. Plays hell with plastics though.

But even hangers are not necessarily a cure all. I live in a subdivision now that all the houses have hangers, one person here keeps his airplanes immaculate, has won best plane at Oshkosh etc. He’s complaining about corrosion so I’ve started monitoring the humidity in my hanger, and so far I’m seeing over 60% relative humidity, and apparently 60% is some kind of threshold that I think will allow condensation to occur?

The spar carry throughs are in my opinion a water trap, it would seem that they should have drain holes, smooth holes of course no stress risers.

So maybe it’s going to take airconditioning to really have the best environment? Maybe just enough to knock down the humidity?

I guess there is no end really, just depends on how far your willing and able to afford to go. I may investigate a mini split AC, they seem affordable, if it’s enough to reduce humidity.
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Re: Skylight removal and skin over

Post by klyde sessna »

Reduce humidity in Florida? Ha. You'll need a bigger AC!
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Re: Skylight removal and skin over

Post by 6277 »

Ceiling fans, floor fans, other methods of air circulation can help cut down condensation which contributes to corrosion.
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Re: Skylight removal and skin over

Post by a64pilot »

klyde sessna wrote: Fri Jan 22, 2021 9:52 pm Reduce humidity in Florida? Ha. You'll need a bigger AC!
So far the 50 pint per day dehumidifier I had for a boat seems to be pretty much doing the job, hanger is 3,000 sq ft and if you look at dehumidifiers, the 70 pint ones are supposed to be good for up to 5,000 sq ft.

I think I may buy a 70 pint one and run both, they usually come with sensors that you can set that will turn the compressor off when the set humidity is reached, currently mine is running 24/7, but you really can tell the difference. It is filling up a 5 gl bucket in 24 hours when humidity is high.

For summer use I’m contemplating a mini split AC, not really trying to airconditioner the hanger, just knock the humidity down is all, and a dehumidifier actually adds a little heat, and I don’t want that in August.

The 50 pint model of dehumidifier pulls about 500W I believe, so that should be about 12 kilowatt hours if run continually 24/7?

Price of a kilowatt hour of electricity is I believe about 12c, so it ought to cost $1.44 a day to run the dehumidifier.
Assuming I did the math right, I’m not good at math.
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