My 1946 120 Resto project N77220

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6643
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Re: My 1946 120 Resto project N77220

Post by 6643 »

Kazoo120 » Tue Mar 04, 2014 11:52 am

Working main gear alignment. I moved the Cleveland brake calipers to the rear now, so that I can run the brakelines directly down to them, The plane had extenders on it as received, and I removed those. The brake lines that were on the plane are abit longer to have reached the calipres with those mounted, so I will be able to run those lines directly down to the Cleveland's, and wont need a flex hose from what I can see.

I started off aligning the mains from the Cessna manuals, but through inputs from a number of very qualified sources, that wasn't going to be good enough. The better methods suggested were to drop a C/L from the fuse and align each wheel to that using the compound shims. So far I have the left main in pretty good shape, and am working the right main.

Pictures show the simple setup. It's an iterative process, and if I took some time I could probably work some math to guide the selection and orientation of the shims to achieve alignment faster, however it's good exercise to get up and down from the cold concrete slab of my shop (air is warm, floor is cold), I figure!

A 3' length of alum angle is lightly clamped to each brake rotor. and the string tied to the jackstand touches plumb bobs dropped at the front and rear. Toe is measured to the string. Camber is measured with a race car bubble camber gauge.
A 3' length of alum angle is lightly clamped to each brake rotor. and the string tied to the jackstand touches plumb bobs dropped at the front and rear. Toe is measured to the string. Camber is measured with a race car bubble camber gauge.
20140303_1821062_743.jpg (112.9 KiB) Viewed 15358 times
Plumb bob
Plumb bob
20140303_1820461_212.jpg (110.93 KiB) Viewed 15358 times
Cleveland setup
Cleveland setup
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Re: My 1946 120 Resto project N77220

Post by 6643 »

cfsmv » Tue Mar 04, 2014 1:38 pm

Won't the allignment change when you add wings ?

JG

James » Thu Mar 06, 2014 10:43 pm
Kazoo120 wrote:
The brake lines that were on the plane are abit longer to have reached the calipres with those mounted, so I will be able to run those lines directly down to the Cleveland's, and wont need a flex hose from what I can see.
I would recommend that you keep the flex lines with the Clevelands. Unlike the Goodyears that are mounted solid to the axle, the Cleveland's need to be able to slide back and forth on their mounts.

James
120BR '46 120
5729E '59 150TD

M20R » Tue Mar 18, 2014 11:27 pm

To get the best gear alignment the aircraft should be at a normal operating weight.
You should recheck the alignment when the aircraft is fully assembled plus fuel and pilot.
Don (former owner of your O200)
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Re: My 1946 120 Resto project N77220

Post by 6643 »

Kazoo120 » Wed Mar 19, 2014 11:51 am

Great responses, thanks everyone!

First off, I have completed the alignment for the moment (meaning without the wings on and a few other items). I did put weights in the seats to simulate the bulk of the remaining weight that will be added, and set the alignment to the factory specs over the rim diameter. I also aligned it to the aircraft centerline, per inputs from everyone. I will check it again later when the plane is fully assembled. In the end it wasn't too bad a job.

Alignment setup
Alignment setup
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Re: My 1946 120 Resto project N77220

Post by 6643 »

Kazoo120 » Wed Mar 19, 2014 11:56 am

Continued to install the brake lines for the Cleveland conversion. From everyone's inputs, i did add the flex hoses to allow the calipres the float. Thanks to all who provided guidance for that. I flared the existing lines and the installation went very well. Next will be to bleed the brakes, will have to research how to do that, since the bleeder screw seems to be on the lower part of the caliper.

Brake line and flex hose installation
Brake line and flex hose installation
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Re: My 1946 120 Resto project N77220

Post by 6643 »

Kazoo120 » Wed Mar 19, 2014 12:12 pm

I've been working with Morrie the Sheet Metal Guy, to install the elevator hinge reinforcements per AD 47-43-05. Got great info on another thread from a number of individuals on how to do this, and this work is nearing completion, was not too hard at all (I say that, as Morrie makes it look easy, he's a sheet metal fab Supervisor for a major aircraft MRO facility!). We drilled a number of rivets and spot welds to gain access to the spar where the reinforcements go. Reinforcements from Univair were $27 each in 2014, vs. $0.15 each as noted in the original AD. The elevator Assy has 1000 original hours on it, and is in great shape. I can see that you'd want these reinforcements installed.

Inboard hinge access
Inboard hinge access
20140313_1945091_906.jpg (122.6 KiB) Viewed 15358 times
Outboard hinge access
Outboard hinge access
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Re: My 1946 120 Resto project N77220

Post by 6643 »

Kazoo120 » Wed Mar 19, 2014 12:22 pm

Installed the horizontal and vertical stabilizer's. Was able to get down the fuselage to reach the nuts with a torque wrench, while helpers put the bolts through from the rear. This was much easier than how I had to manipulate wrenches to remove the surfaces when I first got the plane. We also now re-installed the elevator trim mechanism, and spent quite abit of time getting that adjusted (6 degrees up, 33 degrees down), lots of reading in manuals. I'm happy with the installation of the fin with the rear bulkhead reinforcement now in place, seems very strong. Will soon final install the elevators and rudder!

Empennage reinstall
Empennage reinstall
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Re: My 1946 120 Resto project N77220

Post by 6643 »

Kazoo120 » Wed Mar 19, 2014 12:43 pm

I knew this was going to be tough, pulling new wires for the battery and rear nav light, under the seat. We decided to cut the old wire at the foot well, and solder all the new wires to it, and pull it through, There is an area at the foot well that is inaccessible otherwise. We pulled the wires through and into the first cavity under the seats, then cut them apart to slide new rubber grommets into place, then re-soldered and pulled them the rest of the way. Once they were pulled through, we installed the new grommets into the holes. Slow going, and some arm rash from sliding hands and arms through the inspection holes. But in the end we got the main power lead and smaller wires in, per factory original installation!

new wires soldered to old to pull through
new wires soldered to old to pull through
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Bundle ready to pull
Bundle ready to pull
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Completed pull
Completed pull
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Re: My 1946 120 Resto project N77220

Post by 6643 »

jeffhettling » Wed Mar 19, 2014 3:30 pm

I made a pressure bleeder for the brakes using a weed sprayer and some ingenuity. I've used it on everything from 172's to King Airs. The trick is to find a fitting that will screw into the fill port of your master cylinders. Have a hole in the fitting and attach a long piece of clear tube into an over flow can. The bleeder I have has a special Cleveland fitting to slip on the bleeder screw but 1/4" clear tube fits well.

The trick is to go nice and slow, air naturally wants to rise so bleeding from the bottom up is the best. Fill your over flow can with a pint or two of clean 5606 fluid that you pushed through and the system will be plenty full. Lots of rags handy when disconnecting the fitting from the master cylinder!

Have pressure and air free fluid present before you open the bleeder screw (1/4" box end wrench to avoid rounding off the flats of the screw). When you think you are finished, close the screw and then release the pressure from the tank. Siphon out the excess fluid from the master cylinder or you can lower it by having someone pump up the brake and holding pressure and another person open the bleeder screw. Make sure the screw is closed before releasing pressure on the pedal.

Jeff Hettling
A&P/IA
PPL
Member #7633

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Re: My 1946 120 Resto project N77220

Post by 6643 »

Kazoo120 » Wed Mar 26, 2014 11:02 am

Full day's work on installation if the throttle, mixture and carb heat cables. Since this is a new 0-200 install for the plane, had to fiddle with brackets and pieces to get them attached. I kept my original throttle cable, it still operates very smoothly. Also routed the plug wires.

Cable routing work and plug wires routed
Cable routing work and plug wires routed
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panel side
panel side
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Re: My 1946 120 Resto project N77220

Post by 6643 »

Kazoo120 » Sun Apr 13, 2014 10:39 am

Visited SunNFun in Lakeland, great week of warm weather and aircraft. It's "Oshkosh Lite". Met up with new club pres Ken Spivey, and Dave Lowe at the club booth, and Jack Hooker and other's at the 120/140 forum. Will definitely go back again

In the vintage area
In the vintage area
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